Crumbs on the Table -- stories about food

Chili time: and that means enchiladas

September 1, 2018 Leave a Comment

After our long, hot summer, a sudden cold snap a week or so ago came as an unwelcome surprise and inspired me to make the first comforting pot of chili in a while. Now that summer has re-asserted itself, however briefly before autumn takes over, I have a plan… Some of that chili, delicious in itself by the bowlful, came out of the freezer today to make a fine dish of Tex-Mex enchiladas — one of my family’s very favourite dishes anytime of year, especially with fresh ‘fixings’ on the side. Corn tortillas are rolled up with the meaty chili, a handful of grated cheese and chopped onion, and topped with more chili and cheese to bake until melted and scrumptious.

My version of Texas chili is inspired by my Mom (who uses ground beef) and my Uncle Dean (who often uses venison), and I still have their wonderful recipes, written in their own hands. I’ve been making it regularly to great reviews for about 40 years, tinkering with it just enough during that time to adapt to a few changes in ingredients, especially the variety of chili peppers now available in Britian. I’ve settled on this version for some years now, and think it’s pretty special: smokey, with layers of flavour, and a bit of a chili buzz, but not so hot that heat is all you get.

Making it is quick work and fills the house with gorgeous smells. It’s versatile, economical, tastes even better the next day, and freezes brilliantly. It also makes a great filling for tacos, so one humble pot offers at least three winning menu possibilities. [Read More…]

Anise hyssop gelato

August 9, 2018 Leave a Comment

If you don’t know it already, meet anise hyssop. I’m very excited by this delightful new acquaintance, my serendipitous culinary discovery of the summer. Also known as liquorice mint, its leaves and beautiful purple flowers taste remarkable. It is actually sweet, which gives its liquorice flavour an instantly more-ish quality that herbs like aniseed and fennel don’t have without a bit of treatment. The liquorice flavour is definitely there in anise hyssop, but not at all macho, and not quite just liquorice: it has complexity, with subtle undertones of mint and something else herbal and wild. Even if you don’t like liquorice, you might very well be seduced by this versatile and surprising herb.

Its leaves and flowers can be used for sweet and savoury dishes, as a primary flavour component or a subtle accent. I’ve been harvesting from a pot in the garden to use in beef stir fries; in salads with raw Florence fennel; alongside dill and bronze fennel with fish; and scattered on fruit salads, where it’s particularly lovely. Its poker-like flowerheads are easy to strip into myriad little flowerettes with a gentle stroke, and these have also gone into shortbread, and on top of sliced tomatoes and beetroot. They’re irresistible as an edible flower garnish that actually tastes of something.

Without doubt, however, this refreshing gelato-style ice cream is the very best way I’ve found to highlight anise hyssop’s unique qualities. It truly is a stunning celebration of this herb, as the dairy medium carries its flavour unimpeded, allowing it to taste of itself. And who could resist the transformation of such a lovely flavour into a treat so cooling, with such an exquisite mouthfeel? [Read More…]

East Asian style chicken thighs with apricots

August 1, 2018 2 Comments

The Cambridgeshire apricots are in, and they are beautiful, despite this very challenging season. The trees are full of fruit (no frosts at blossom-time and a good spell in spring for the pollinators), but this summer’s exceptional heat wave and drought have been hard on the trees and growers. Fruits are tending to be smaller, so yields are actually lower and harvesting takes longer, with more left unpicked. The fruits are also ripening on the trees more quickly than usual, making the season shorter. But here’s the good news: the apricots that are harvested have an incredible intensity of flavour in the absence of rain. We can benefit from this superior taste, and also help the farmers, by not overlooking the smaller fruits: juicy gifts of nature in dry times.

At home, we’re eating them fresh at an indecent rate, and also finding lots of ways to tinker with them, from pie, to jam, to compotes, to this lovely savoury dish with chicken. This has been a favourite dish of mine for some years, but it’s not often I’ve been able to make it with local apricots. In some years the frost takes the blossom, or there’s too much rain for the pollinators.

The fruits are baked fresh with skin-on chicken thighs, and there is also apricot jam in the delightfully sticky sauce, which is given oomph with a mix of East Asian flavourings: fresh ginger, garlic, chili, tamari and a little sesame oil. I’ve used some fresh thyme from the garden as well, as it goes beautifully with apricots; and there are spring onions (scallions) for more freshness, and sesame seeds for a little more crunch on the crispy skin. This dish has a delicious balance of fruity sweetness, salty umami, and heat from the chili, ginger and garlic.

[Read More…]

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