Crumbs on the Table -- stories about food

Umbrian chickpea and pasta soup

November 1, 2018 2 Comments

We learned to make this deliciously flavoured and hearty soup in Perugia, Umbria from two companionable ladies who have been making it for many years, and eating it for longer. Of all the local dishes we learned to make with Nonie and Tita, this is the one I’ve made several times since, with the Umbrian-grown chickpeas we brought home with us while stocks lasted, and latterly with ones imported from elsewhere. It’s a keeper: simple to make, nutritious and economical, filling without being too caloric, extremely satisfying and interesting — it tastes even better the day after it’s made (and freezes well, too). It exactly suits my requirements at the moment, making a reluctant entry into winter a little easier to bear.

Using the cooking liquid from the chickpeas as the basis of the broth adds so much flavour, and makes one appreciate how good chickpeas (‘ceci’ in Italian) can be when they are grown well and get the attention they deserve in the kitchen. Dried chickpeas are the tastiest, but you do need to think ahead and give them a night (or day) to soak and then boil until tender before you can make this soup. As a speedy alternative you can use tinned, or for better flavour at a price, jarred chickpeas.

It’s the generous addition of rosemary, in company with garlic, bay leaf, a little chilli pepper, and an excellent olive oil, that elevates this soup from a bland bean soup to something to look forward to. As with much of the best Italian food, it relies on a few excellent ingredients, the cultural knowledge of what flavours enhance each other, and what cooking methods will bring out their best. We learned several tips and techniques from our hosts, and were astonished at the flavours they managed to extract from these few basic ingredients. [Read More…]

Apple butter and ginger cake

October 1, 2018 Leave a Comment

For an island that’s grown an enormous variety of apples with pride and distinction for centuries, I don’t understand why apple butter isn’t known in Britain. A quintessential taste of autumn, this silky, sweet/tart apple-spread is taken for granted in my home country, or at least in those apple-growing regions of it where I’ve lived. It’s a blessing of the season appreciated chiefly as a topping for warm toast, well-suited to cheering up cold winter mornings and gloomy afternoons. For some fans, my mother and me included, it satisfies a nostalgic craving that jams, honey or marmalade, good as they are, just can’t satisfy when the mood strikes. It’s equally irresistible by the stolen spoonful, and exquisite with ginger cake (‘gingerbread’ to my fellow Yanks).

Homemade, it’s one of those simplest of things that tastes so good for the very reason that it is simple, capturing the best of a fruit that has its own complexity. Sweetened with unrefined Muscovado sugar, the autumnal flavours amplified with a dusky hint of cinnamon and a bright squeeze of lemon, it’s made with these four straightforward ingredients. The name might mislead you as there’s no butter in it, but one taste will explain all: its mouthfeel – smooth, thick and sticky – is absolutely seductive, a butter made of fruit.

Making apple butter is one of the most delightful kitchen jobs, not least because it makes the house smell of the best things about autumn. It’s easy to make from any kind of apple, and in fact a variety is nice: I used our own Dr Kidd’s Orange Pippins, a lovely eater, and our gardener-friend Kim’s green, sharp Granny Smiths. Making apple butter is a brilliant way to preserve a harvest when there’s a glut, especially if you (like me) have fruits that aren’t perfect and need carving to be useable. It’s quick to knock up a small batch, not nearly as fiddly to make as jam, but lasting just as long as jam when it’s properly sealed in sterilised jars. Eating apple butter freshly made is a great seasonal treat, however, and if you manage not to eat it all at once, it does last about a month in the fridge.

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Chili time: and that means enchiladas

September 1, 2018 Leave a Comment

After our long, hot summer, a sudden cold snap a week or so ago came as an unwelcome surprise and inspired me to make the first comforting pot of chili in a while. Now that summer has re-asserted itself, however briefly before autumn takes over, I have a plan… Some of that chili, delicious in itself by the bowlful, came out of the freezer today to make a fine dish of Tex-Mex enchiladas — one of my family’s very favourite dishes anytime of year, especially with fresh ‘fixings’ on the side. Corn tortillas are rolled up with the meaty chili, a handful of grated cheese and chopped onion, and topped with more chili and cheese to bake until melted and scrumptious.

My version of Texas chili is inspired by my Mom (who uses ground beef) and my Uncle Dean (who often uses venison), and I still have their wonderful recipes, written in their own hands. I’ve been making it regularly to great reviews for about 40 years, tinkering with it just enough during that time to adapt to a few changes in ingredients, especially the variety of chili peppers now available in Britian. I’ve settled on this version for some years now, and think it’s pretty special: smokey, with layers of flavour, and a bit of a chili buzz, but not so hot that heat is all you get.

Making it is quick work and fills the house with gorgeous smells. It’s versatile, economical, tastes even better the next day, and freezes brilliantly. It also makes a great filling for tacos, so one humble pot offers at least three winning menu possibilities. [Read More…]

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