[This article is one of a series of Crumbs on the Table monthly food columns published in Weekend (editor, Alice Ryan), the Saturday supplement of the Cambridge News. This August column ponders what makes sustainable farming sustainable, and offers recipes for a vibrant late-summer Tomato Prosciutto Tart, and a splendid Raspberry Dacquoise: a nut meringue filled with cream and fresh berries.]
This Danish dessert is one of the most delicious and unpronounceable ways to use red currants I know. I fell in love with it as a student in Denmark, where it is regarded as a national treasure. Pronouncing it was considered a test of ones accent as a student of the language, in that good-natured, self-mocking way of the Danes. I only tasted it again when I moved to England years later, long after I’d forgotten most of my Danish, but rødgrød med fløde I remembered well — both for its exquisite taste of summer, and for the memories of my Danish host family’s giggles at the table as I struggled to make those oddly gargled sounds.
In Denmark and elsewhere throughout Scandinavia, rødgrød it is often made with a combination of red fruits — red currants, raspberries and cherries — but it is also made with red currants alone, and this is how I normally make it now, as a perfect way to treat those beautiful fruits, so gorgeously ruby-like on their long stalks.