Breakfast for us kids on Christmas morning was always cinnamon rolls: the soft, billowy kind with a simple filling of brown sugar and cinnamon and a sugary glaze, sometimes flavoured with orange, sometimes ‘regular’. We would eat from the outside, … [Read more...]
Toscakaka: Scandinavian caramelised almond cake
This is a cake beyond the ordinary. I encountered Toscakaka (Tosca cake) years ago in Norway, where it is well-loved throughout the year. I associate it mostly with Christmas, however, as the best I had there was baked by a lovely woman named Elsa, … [Read more...]
Umbrian chickpea and pasta soup
We learned to make this deliciously flavoured and hearty soup in Perugia, Umbria from two companionable ladies who have been making it for many years, and eating it for longer. Of all the local dishes we learned to make with Nonie and Tita, this is … [Read more...]
East Asian style chicken thighs with apricots
The Cambridgeshire apricots are in, and they are beautiful, despite this very challenging season. The trees are full of fruit (no frosts at blossom-time and a good spell in spring for the pollinators), but this summer's exceptional heat wave and … [Read more...]
Damn fine cherry pie
I long for this pie every summer, but hardly ever get it because the sour Morello cherries that make it so lust-worthy aren't often sold fresh in Britain. Personally, I wouldn't make a cherry pie with anything but a … [Read more...]
Fried elderblossom
May is the best-behaved month in the British calendar, and this year it has been especially generous with cloudless blue skies: quite dangerously so, as we risk growing accustomed to them. The ubiquitous Sambucus nigra is responding with a … [Read more...]
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