As everyone keeps saying, Christmas will be different this year. For me, it will be cooking transportable, reheatable meals for delivery to people who aren’t cooking for themselves; baking some goodies as thank you gifts for those kind and competent … [Read more...]
Tuscan-style grape and walnut harvest bread — and a batch of grape jelly
We inherited a grape vine that has produced a few small clusters of grapes most years, which have mostly stayed hard and green, not even attractive to the birds. Thanks to our extraordinary summer last year, we actually had a harvest of ripe, dark … [Read more...]
California cooking: Chez Panisse garlic soufflé
If there's one thing that typifies California cooking to me more even than artichokes, it has to be garlic. It grows famously in Gilroy, south of San Francisco, where the town smells of garlic in the best kind of way, and you can procure anything … [Read more...]
California cooking: artichoke tart, and artichoke steamed
California cuisine seems to be enjoying renewed attention in the UK, not only for its multicultural fusion-cooking, but for its creativity with seasonal, interesting produce – thanks no doubt to our current interests in more adventurous vegetable … [Read more...]
Mina’s Napoli sea bream with pink peppercorns, coriander seeds and rosemary
This is an excitingly delicious and very easy way to cook fish that we discovered on a birthday trip to Naples, and I believe it to be a rarity, and perhaps unique. Mina, the gentle woman who cooked it for us, told us with quiet pride, “It’s my … [Read more...]
The Chez Panisse leek and goat cheese tart: a vegetable with history, and a tart that symbolises a revolution
This is one of the recipes I make most from my time cooking at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, back in the ’eighties. It’s been one of my favourite things to eat and make ever since. This beautiful tart always surprises, always delights. … [Read more...]
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