The solemn strangeness of this year, and for those of us who aren’t managing far worse, the preoccupation with running out, brings back memories for me of another Easter: one I spent in Denmark many years ago as a 17-year-old exchange … [Read more...]
South African malva pudding with coconut and rum
Malva pudding is a ubiquitous winter pudding in South Africa, filling the same kind of niche as sticky toffee pudding does here in England. It was offered to us almost everywhere we ate when we visited last May, from Grahamstown to Cape Town, and … [Read more...]
In search of the honest apricot
Listen to Laura's podcast of this food essay by clicking the arrow below: I’ll go back to the beginning…. I remember sitting on the backsteps under a punitive August sun, basting a rock, pretending it was a roast. I was three. … [Read more...]
Mina’s Napoli sea bream with pink peppercorns, coriander seeds and rosemary
This is an excitingly delicious and very easy way to cook fish that we discovered on a birthday trip to Naples, and I believe it to be a rarity, and perhaps unique. Mina, the gentle woman who cooked it for us, told us with quiet pride, “It’s my … [Read more...]
Ciambelline al vino: red wine and aniseed biscuits
These are one of my most memorable culinary discoveries of last year, and one of the best cookies I’ve had in a lifetime (which is saying something -- just ask my thighs). Crunchy, just-sweet, and deliciously fragrant, ciambelline al vino ('little … [Read more...]
Umbrian baked rigatoni with sausage and peas
This luscious baked pasta dish was served to us as a primo piatto ('first plate' or first course) on our summer holiday in Umbria. Pasta al forno bianca con salsiccia e piselli is rigatoni dressed with a parmesan-rich white-sauce flavoured with … [Read more...]