The solemn strangeness of this year, and for those of us who aren’t managing far worse, the preoccupation with running out, brings back memories for me of another Easter: one I spent in Denmark many years ago as a 17-year-old exchange … [Read more...]
The fall and rise of the tomato
Listen to Laura's podcast of this food essay by clicking the arrow below: Summer has certainly been elusive this year, but it’s still summer. Its exuberant harvest is glutting our fields and markets despite the weather’s ups and … [Read more...]
In search of the honest apricot
Listen to Laura's podcast of this food essay by clicking the arrow below: I’ll go back to the beginning…. I remember sitting on the backsteps under a punitive August sun, basting a rock, pretending it was a roast. I was three. … [Read more...]
Ciambelline al vino: red wine and aniseed biscuits
These are one of my most memorable culinary discoveries of last year, and one of the best cookies I’ve had in a lifetime (which is saying something -- just ask my thighs). Crunchy, just-sweet, and deliciously fragrant, ciambelline al vino ('little … [Read more...]
Umbrian baked rigatoni with sausage and peas
This luscious baked pasta dish was served to us as a primo piatto ('first plate' or first course) on our summer holiday in Umbria. Pasta al forno bianca con salsiccia e piselli is rigatoni dressed with a parmesan-rich white-sauce flavoured with … [Read more...]
East Asian style chicken thighs with apricots
The Cambridgeshire apricots are in, and they are beautiful, despite this very challenging season. The trees are full of fruit (no frosts at blossom-time and a good spell in spring for the pollinators), but this summer's exceptional heat wave and … [Read more...]
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