Breakfast for us kids on Christmas morning was always cinnamon rolls: the soft, billowy kind with a simple filling of brown sugar and cinnamon and a sugary glaze, sometimes flavoured with orange, sometimes ‘regular’. We would eat from the outside, … [Read more...]
Toscakaka: Scandinavian caramelised almond cake
This is a cake beyond the ordinary. I encountered Toscakaka (Tosca cake) years ago in Norway, where it is well-loved throughout the year. I associate it mostly with Christmas, however, as the best I had there was baked by a lovely woman named Elsa, … [Read more...]
Anise hyssop gelato
If you don't know it already, meet anise hyssop. I'm very excited by this delightful new acquaintance, my serendipitous culinary discovery of the summer. Also known as liquorice mint, its leaves and beautiful purple flowers taste remarkable. It is … [Read more...]
Damn fine cherry pie
I long for this pie every summer, but hardly ever get it because the sour Morello cherries that make it so lust-worthy aren't often sold fresh in Britain. Personally, I wouldn't make a cherry pie with anything but a … [Read more...]
Sicilian vanilla gelato (gelato di vaniglia)
This is a Mary Taylor Simeti interpretation of Sicilian ice cream, as made by her neighbourhood gelato maestro in Palermo. She painstakingly reproduced it at home so she can, in her words, "survive when he closes down for winter...". This … [Read more...]
Strawberry rose jam and cream scones
It’s June, and the roses in my English garden are putting on their best show in years (all that May sunshine!). The English strawberries with real flavour are also starting to come in, with a glut to follow once June really gets going. This seasonal … [Read more...]
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