This is an excitingly delicious and very easy way to cook fish that we discovered on a birthday trip to Naples, and I believe it to be a rarity, and perhaps unique. Mina, the gentle woman who cooked it for us, told us with quiet pride, “It’s my … [Read more...]
The Chez Panisse leek and goat cheese tart: a vegetable with history, and a tart that symbolises a revolution
This is one of the recipes I make most from my time cooking at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, back in the ’eighties. It’s been one of my favourite things to eat and make ever since. This beautiful tart always surprises, always delights. … [Read more...]
Ciambelline al vino: red wine and aniseed biscuits
These are one of my most memorable culinary discoveries of last year, and one of the best cookies I’ve had in a lifetime (which is saying something -- just ask my thighs). Crunchy, just-sweet, and deliciously fragrant, ciambelline al vino ('little … [Read more...]
Umbrian baked rigatoni with sausage and peas
This luscious baked pasta dish was served to us as a primo piatto ('first plate' or first course) on our summer holiday in Umbria. Pasta al forno bianca con salsiccia e piselli is rigatoni dressed with a parmesan-rich white-sauce flavoured with … [Read more...]
Toscakaka: Scandinavian caramelised almond cake
This is a cake beyond the ordinary. I encountered Toscakaka (Tosca cake) years ago in Norway, where it is well-loved throughout the year. I associate it mostly with Christmas, however, as the best I had there was baked by a lovely woman named Elsa, … [Read more...]
East Asian style chicken thighs with apricots
The Cambridgeshire apricots are in, and they are beautiful, despite this very challenging season. The trees are full of fruit (no frosts at blossom-time and a good spell in spring for the pollinators), but this summer's exceptional heat wave and … [Read more...]
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