I can't describe the excitement I felt when I encountered my first true smørrebrød. I was a student in Denmark, at the University of Copenhagen on a semester abroad scholarship. It was the first time I'd travelled out of my own country as a … [Read more...]
January’s citrus rituals I: marmalade
It's hot, sticky work, but someone's got to do it. It's January, and after a brief respite over New Year, during which I fully recovered from seasonal baking burnout (all that gingerbread!), I'm impatient to get on with things: things involving … [Read more...]
January’s citrus rituals II: spremuti
Simplify, simplify. At least once a winter, you owe it to yourself to squeeze some fresh citrus for an exquisite drink that can make you feel instantly grateful to be alive. As January rituals go, this is a joyously straightforward one that … [Read more...]
Mushrooms make a meal
I've always loved that early part of Lord of the Rings when the hobbits are still in the Shire, walking and singing their way past familiar places before things get scary. The transition is that tense scene when they cross Farmer Maggot's fields to … [Read more...]
Light in the darkness
Last night we joined friends in the Suffolk countryside for Bonfire Night. It was the first time this strange English ritual has touched me, and I did not expect this. I must admit to finding most such nights, with their local fireworks and bad … [Read more...]
Mohawk apples
In rural southern New Jersey, where I mostly grew up, apple orchards surrounded us with miles of fruitfulness and roadside stands. I so clearly remember the smell of Winesap, Macintosh and Delicious, and the cool mustiness of the cider place where … [Read more...]